Latex, Rubberism, and PVC
Latex fetishism is the attraction to
people wearing latex
clothing or, in many cases, the garments made from latex themselves. Since Latex is closely related to
rubber, rubber is also commonly included in this fetish. PVC is a compound made from polyvinyl chloride and is also commonly included
in the fetish although it has a much shinier look, similar to patent leather,
which also has its own fetish enthusiasts.
Since the three materials are all very similar, they have a tendency to
be used interchangeably in the community of its fetishists.
These
materials are commonly used by fetishists because of not only their aesthetic
value, which can be viewed as a “second skin” of sorts, but also because of their restrictive
quality which in turn lends itself as an excellent material for bondage
play. However, not all latex
fetishists are attracted to bondage or lingerie style latex and rubber clothes.
Some are attracted to other garments found and worn outside the community such
as raincoats, skin diving suits, hazmat suits, galoshes and even gas
masks. Since many sex toys are made
from rubber, there may be heightened arousal with their use. In addition, many
fetishists create expanded fantasies around their use for fetishistic
gratification. Other common latex
items, such as condoms and medical gloves, are commonly used for their tactile
properties.
Latex
itself is derived from tree sap and initially dries to a clear yellowish color,
although it is dyed to its desired color when used to make clothes. Ammonia is added to retard spoilage, but
the amount is very small in concentration and vents off when the latex
dries. The ammonia also helps
enhance polymerization. Water is the base for liquid latex. Liquid Latex is
non-toxic, does not clog pores and does not prevent perspiration from forming. Liquid latex is used to coat either skin
or clothing and forms a highly elastic, strong rubber.
Since Latex and rubber clothing is expensive and hard to
come by (although not as difficult nowadays because of the internet), some
people choose to make their own latex fetish wear out of liquid latex. It is simply applied to the article of
clothing desired, and then left to dry.
Usually about three or four coats will work on most garments. It takes about 5 or 10 minutes for each
coat to dry, but the process can be sped up by the use of a hairdryer. If applied to the skin, make sure to shave
the affected areas beforehand and apply lubricant. Although it is important for the removal
of the latex later on, too much lubricant could affect the latex and stretch it
too much.
When coating a piece of clothing in latex, make sure the
latex gets between the fibers.
After the initial coat sets in, apply as many as desired or needed for
the texture you are desire. Fabrics
such as cotton do not work as well for this because they tend to stretch and
retain the shape. Also, materials
such as Lycra are not good candidates as the fabrics will mat together and the
fabric loses its stretch. Denim and
tightly woven fabrics work very well and nylon will work as well, as long as
the liquid latex soaks through the fabric.
It is a good idea to test the fabric being coated first on a small
patch. Always make sure to use a
non-petroleum based product when cleaning your latex garments.
When wearing your latex garment, be sure to first remove
all jewelry so as not to tear or snag the garment. They could also discolor the latex. Cover the area the garment will cover
with some talcum powder and put on the garment wearing cotton gloves to avoid
fingernail damage. Make sure to
hand wash your garments and leave to hang dry in an area out of direct
sunlight. Store the garment in a
plastic bag, preferably black to block sunlight, and covered in a thin layer of
talcum powder. Pack the bag away in
a drawer or closet, making sure that it is in a place where it will not get
damp and will be away from heaters, as it can melt fairly easily. Latex can permanently stain brown if it
comes in contact with copper, bronze, or brass, so be careful even after
handling copper coins. Always
attempt to keep dirty or sweaty fingers away from your garment. Make sure to use latex polish to clean
the garment and remember that oils, greases and solvents will damage your latex.
Don’t use any oil based creams or lubricants. Use water based lubricants! Be sure to wash the garment after
use. Even the best made and
well cared for garment
will need repair at some time. Torn seams, small holes, splitting at the joints
are common problems and should be repaired immediately or the defect will soon
propagate and lead to a major failure. Seams that have come unglued are fairly
easy to fix. Clean both surfaces of the seam with a mild solvent (to remove
oils or polish) then apply a little rubber adhesive to both sides and allow to dry for a couple of minutes. Then press the two sides
together and apply pressure for several minutes. Allow the joint to dry for at
least 24 hours before use and tears will require patching. Clean the inner surface around the hole
with the solvent and lightly sand the area with fine-grit sandpaper. Cut a
circular patch an inch bigger in diameter than the hole of the thinnest gauge
of matching rubber available. Apply glue to the inside surface of the garment
around the hole and to the surface of the patch. The patch may curl at first.
When both surfaces are dry to the touch, straighten out the patch and press it
firmly over the hole. Apply pressure for a couple of minutes, then dust the patch
with talc and allow it to dry for at least 24 hours.
If you observe these simple rules, you should have an
enjoyable experience with your latex for a long time!However, not all bondHoHo